Build a Simple Shed: a Complete Guide

Create level, firm contact points for the shed using concrete pavers or landscaping blocks. For an 8x8-foot layout, place solid contact points at the corners and at the midpoints along each wall. If you have a sloped lawn like the author, put the upper half directly on blocks buried slightly in the ground, and the other half up on elevated risers bolted to concrete pier blocks. Use 12" by 8" "Olde Manor" garden blocks from Home Depot. Ensure all blocks are precisely located as needed, perfectly level with each other, and firmly set on compacted material.

For the elevated half of the shed, carefully position pier blocks that will hold the wooden risers. Build a temporary frame that is the exact size needed to act as a placement guide. This helps ensure accurate positioning. If building on relatively flat ground, carefully measuring corner-to-corner to check for squareness of the layout of your ground blocks should be sufficient.

Construct the floor frame and internal joists using pressure treated 8-foot 2x6 boards (trimmed as needed). Double up the external boards for added strength and rigidity. Fasten the first layer of boards. Where boards attach directly to the risers, use 3" galvanized 5/16" diameter lag bolts into pre-drilled, slightly counterbored holes. Elsewhere, use 3" exterior grade screws into pre-drilled holes. Where the upper portion rests directly on blocks, use landscaping adhesive to hold them in place. Ensure the frame is square by measuring corner-to-corner and adjusting until both dimensions are exactly the same.

Add exterior boards to double up the floor frame, lapping them at the corners. For the portion attached to riser blocks, fasten the second layer internally so the boards tie in directly to the riser blocks. Pre-plan to ensure the finished frame is exactly 8 feet by 8 feet.

Fasten galvanized joist hangers to the frame with galvanized nails every 16 inches. Fasten the joist boards in place with 3" exterior screws through the joist brackets. Add blocks of 2x6 to the mid section between the joists to provide support to the edges of the floor boards that will meet there. Fasten these sections between the joists with toe-nailed screws.

Install two sheets of 4' by 8' tongue and groove 23/32" OSB for the floor boards. Fasten them to the floor frame and joists with 1 1/2" exterior screws placed every 8 inches or so. Carefully trim off the "tongue" of the board that sticks out over the edge of the frame using a circular saw.

Build roof trusses on the floor platform, which acts as a large work table. Use 22.5 degrees as the magic number for cutting mating pieces. For the roof, use five trusses laid out 24 inches apart. See diagrams for specific dimensions and details on building the trusses.

Frame the two peaked end walls with 2x4 studs set 24 inches apart. Build them the full width of the floor (8 feet). The height of the end walls plus the height of the floor platform should together be exactly 8 feet to maximize the use of exterior siding panels. Attach exterior panels to the wall frames before putting each wall section up. Use 3" screws through pre-drilled holes. Measure the actual deck height (likely around 6 3/8") rather than the theoretical measurement.

Frame the side walls with 3 1/2" subtracted from the width on either end so they butt up nicely against the insides of the peaked end walls. Leave the exterior panels the full eight feet wide so they cover up the end wall frames once all walls are put up.

Frame openings for windows and doors as needed. The author used an old window from Habitat for Humanity ReStore. For the door, frame it in a specific location that dictates the maximum size. See photo notes for basics on framing windows and doors.

Install the wall panels in a specific order to ensure precision. Use the factory-cut, perfectly square panels to pull the frames into perfect squareness. Attach panels with exterior galvanized nails according to the provided diagrams. Take your time to ensure walls are perfectly square.

Install the end wall panels in essentially the same manner as the side walls, but without planning for side overhang. Mark and trim off the top corners of the panels as shown.

For the side wall with the window, carefully measure and mark where to put all the exterior nails to fasten the panels to the frame. With the panels in place, remove the material where the window will go, and install the window. Do not remove the paneling where the door is framed in yet, as the wall will be too weak.

Install a couple of vents somewhere along the walls to maintain airflow in and out of the shed. The author placed vents on either end of the non-windowed side wall (which faces away from the house).

Lift the back end wall into place and fasten it with 4" exterior screws through the floor board into the floor frame boards. Use screws that can be fastened into treated lumber. Lift the side walls into place, butt them firmly against the back wall frame, and screw them down through the floor boards into the floor frame. Screw the corners where the frames meet together from inside the side wall frames to the end wall frame. Add shorter exterior screws along the outside bottom edges of the panels where they cover the floor frame.

Lift the last wall up and hold it in place with help. Climb in and screw it in place just as the other walls had been. Carefully cut free the paneling that was covering the door frame using a reciprocating saw. This panel will be used to build the door, so trim it carefully. Remove the section of the wall frame at the bottom of the door with the reciprocating saw.

Screw the three remaining trusses to the tops of the wall frames directly inline with the wall studs. Fasten two sheets of 7/16" OSB to the trusses with screws (about every 8 inches), ensuring the trusses are vertical. Add 7-inch strips of OSB along the lower edges to complete the roof. The amount of overhang is dictated by how you want to do the roof trim boards.

Paint the walls with exterior paint. The author used Behr exterior paint, color: Boston Brick.

Add roof trim pieces after the walls are painted. Use actual 2x4s for the trim to give the roof a more substantial look.

Add trim around the window and along the corners. Paint the trim pieces ahead of time and fasten them with 1" pneumatic staples. Fill staple holes with exterior putty, then caulk the window and corner trim to seal the edges. Finish with touch-up painting.

Install architectural shingles to match the house, following the manufacturer's instructions. For a simple shed, you can either overhang shingles a couple of inches all around or install an aluminum drip edge. The author used a drip edge.

Build and install the door. There are many details involved. See photos and photo notes for specifics on construction and installation.

Build shelves that are useful, don't waste floor space, and provide access to the window. The author deliberated on the design to meet these criteria.

Create a solution for tidy lawn tool storage. The author made little hangers from 2" PVC.

Paint the floor with Rustoleum 4x Deck Cover paint to make it waterproof and durable. One gallon allows for two heavy coats.